How much does garden decking cost?
Per square metre, fully installed in Worcestershire in 2026:
• Pressure-treated softwood decking – entry-level deck
• Hardwood (oak, iroko, balau) decking – premium natural-timber tier
• Wood-plastic composite (WPC) – mid-range, long-life composite
• Premium capped composite (Trex Transcend, Millboard) – high-end composite finish
Plus separate items:
• Balustrade – priced per linear metre
• Steps – priced per riser
• Concealed lighting – priced per fitting
• Removal of existing deck – priced per area
Final cost depends on the board chosen, the deck size, sub-frame, balustrade and any steps required for elevation. Every quote is written and itemised.
What's included in the per-m² price: pressure-treated joists at correct centres (400mm or 300mm), galvanised post anchors or concrete pad foundations as appropriate, weed-suppressing membrane over hardcore, the deck boards themselves with stainless or external-grade galvanised fixings, edge trim, oil/stain treatment for timber.
What's quoted separately: balustrade, steps, lighting, integrated planters, screens or pergola structures.
See full pricing detail on the decking services page.
Composite vs timber decking – which is better?
For most modern Worcestershire homes we recommend composite. The honest comparison:
Composite decking advantages:
• Lifespan 25 to 30 years with virtually no maintenance
• No annual oiling, staining or re-treatment needed
• Doesn't splinter, doesn't rot, doesn't warp
• Resists fading from UV (capped composites particularly)
• Stain and food/drink resistant
• Consistent appearance – no knots, no colour variation between batches
• Pet-friendly – doesn't splinter when dogs run on it
Composite disadvantages:
• Higher upfront cost – roughly 40–50% more than pressure-treated softwood
• Gets hotter than timber in direct sunlight (especially dark colours)
• Can show surface scratches from heavy point loads (BBQ wheels, furniture)
• Some early generation composites had visible mottling that aged badly – modern capped composites have largely solved this
Timber decking advantages:
• Lower upfront cost
• Traditional warm appearance, natural grain
• Stays cooler underfoot in direct sun
• Easy to repair locally – replace individual boards as they age
• Can be re-stained or oiled to refresh appearance
Timber disadvantages:
• Lifespan 15 to 20 years (pressure-treated softwood), 25+ years (hardwood)
• Annual maintenance – clean, sand, oil/stain
• Splinters as it ages, particularly on south-facing exposed decks
• Warps if not maintained
• Inevitable colour variation between batches and over time
For households where ongoing maintenance is welcome (traditional gardens, owners who enjoy garden upkeep), timber can be the right choice. For everyone else – especially busy households – composite delivers a better long-term experience.
For premium hardwood (oak, iroko), the calculation is different – you're paying composite-ish prices for the natural appearance and the satisfaction of real timber. Worth it for the right setting.
Do I need planning permission for decking?
Decking under 300mm above ground level (measured at the highest point) doesn't require planning permission and falls within permitted development. Three rules apply:
1. Height – the highest point of the deck must be no more than 300mm above the surrounding natural ground level. For decks on sloped sites this is measured at the highest projecting edge.
2. Coverage – the deck (plus any other hard surface, shed or outbuilding) must cover less than 50% of the rear garden curtilage. Front gardens have their own SUDS rules.
3. Setbacks – on the side of the property, the deck must be at least 2m from the highway.
Planning permission IS needed if:
• The deck is more than 300mm above ground at any point (raised decks over basements, decks on sloped sites overlooking neighbouring gardens)
• The deck plus other structures covers more than 50% of the rear garden
• The property is listed (Listed Building Consent needed)
• The property is in a conservation area with specific design controls
• Article 4 Direction zones have additional restrictions
• The deck has overlooking impact on neighbours (a tall deck looking into a neighbouring property)
Building Regulations are separate from planning permission and ALWAYS apply. The main BR requirement for decking is balustrade on any deck more than 600mm above ground level (minimum 1.1m height balustrade) and handrails on steps with more than 3 risers.
We assess your decking site against both planning and Building Regulations during the free site visit. For 90% of Worcestershire decks at standard residential height, the answer is "no planning needed" but we always confirm.
How long does decking last?
Lifespan varies by material:
Composite decking – 25 to 30 years with virtually no maintenance. Most major brands (Trex, Millboard, Cladco, Composite Prime) warrant the boards for 25 years against fade, stain and structural failure under domestic use.
Hardwood decking (oak, iroko, balau) – 25+ years with annual oiling. Without oiling, hardwoods weather to a beautiful silver-grey but lose some surface integrity over time. Many owners deliberately leave hardwood unoiled for the silvered patina.
Pressure-treated softwood – 15 to 20 years with yearly cleaning and re-staining or oiling. Without maintenance, expect 10 to 12 years before significant deterioration.
Sub-frame – pressure-treated joists on galvanised steel post anchors or concrete pads last 40+ years. The sub-frame is the longest-lived part of the deck. When deck boards eventually need replacing, the sub-frame can usually be reused, dramatically reducing the cost of refurbishment.
What shortens lifespan:
• Inadequate sub-frame – joists at too wide centres, timber posts in soil, missing weed membrane underneath. The boards will look fine while the structure rots underneath.
• Standing water – falls should direct water off the deck surface. Pooling water accelerates rot and stain.
• Insufficient ventilation – decks sitting flush to walls or fences without ventilation gaps trap moisture underneath.
• Inadequate fixings – carbon steel screws rust within a few years and stain the boards around each screw. We use stainless or external-grade galvanised throughout.
The 25-30 year lifespan figures assume properly built decks. Most early deck failures we see are sub-frame related, not board related – the structure underneath is what makes the deck last.
How long does decking take to install?
A typical 20 m² deck takes 3 to 5 days, broken into:
Day 1 – Sub-frame construction. Mark out the deck footprint, dig and pour concrete pad foundations (or set steel post anchors), construct the joist frame from pressure-treated timber at 400mm centres (300mm for composite), check levels and falls, fix joist hangers and bracing. Concrete foundations cure for 24 hours before further loading.
Day 2 to 3 – Deck board fixing. Lay weed-suppressing membrane over the ground. Set the first board on the longest visible edge. Work across the deck fixing each board with stainless steel screws or hidden composite clips. Cut to fit at edges and around obstacles. Apply edge trim or fascia. For composite this is straightforward; for timber the boards are oiled or stained during this phase.
Day 4 to 5 – Balustrade, steps and finishing. Construct balustrade where needed (spindle, glass, cable or composite). Build steps from deck to garden level. Install any lighting. Apply oil/stain coats for timber. Tidy site, remove waste.
Larger or more complex decks scale proportionally:
• 30 m² deck – 4 to 5 days
• 50 m² deck – 5 to 7 days
• Multi-level deck with integrated planters and pergola – 7 to 10 days
Weather affects timing. We can install in light rain but heavy rain stops sub-frame construction. Below 5°C concrete foundations can't cure properly. Plan around the forecast.
Does composite decking get hot in the sun?
Yes – composite decking heats up more than timber in direct sunlight. This is the main practical downside of composite. Specific numbers:
• A south-facing composite deck in mid-summer can reach 50–60°C surface temperature on dark colours
• Lighter colours stay 10–15°C cooler than dark
• Capped composites (where the wood-plastic core is wrapped in a polymer cap) dissipate heat slightly better than uncapped
• Grooved board profiles cool faster than flat smooth boards because air circulates over the grooves
What this means in practice:
• Bare feet on dark composite in direct sun can be uncomfortable to walk on in peak summer
• Dogs may prefer to lie on cooler timber or stone alongside the deck
• Furniture left on the deck heats up to match the surface
How to manage it:
1. Choose lighter colours. Sand, light grey, weathered oak finishes stay significantly cooler than charcoal, espresso or walnut.
2. Choose grooved profiles. Most composite brands offer two profile finishes – smooth and grooved. Grooved cools faster.
3. Place the deck thoughtfully. If you can position the deck to get partial shade from a tree, a pergola or the house, that solves the problem at source.
4. Use outdoor rugs. A washable outdoor rug in heavy-use areas provides cool walking surface.
For seriously sun-exposed locations where the heat issue is a concern, hardwood decking is a meaningful alternative – natural timber stays cooler. We bring physical samples of both composite and timber so you can compare in your own setting before deciding.
What goes under the decking boards?
The deck sub-frame – the unseen structure that makes the deck stable, level and durable. A proper specification:
Foundations – concrete pad footings (450mm x 450mm x 600mm deep typical, more on soft ground) or galvanised steel post anchors bedded in concrete. Number of foundations depends on deck size and joist span: typically one foundation every 1.5m to 2m in both directions.
Joists – pressure-treated softwood, typically 100 x 50mm or 150 x 50mm depending on span. Joists run in one direction across the foundations, then the deck boards run perpendicular over them.
Joist centres – 400mm centres for timber decking, 300mm centres for composite. Composite needs more support because the boards are less rigid than equivalent timber.
Weed-suppressing membrane – under the joists, over hardcore or compacted soil. Stops weeds growing up through the gaps between boards.
Hardcore / compacted base – depending on site, can be a 50mm layer of Type 1 sub-base or just compacted earth. Drainage falls so water doesn't pool under the deck.
Joist hangers and brackets – galvanised steel connectors between joists at corners and intersections.
Fixings throughout – stainless steel or external-grade galvanised. Standard carbon steel screws rust within months and stain the boards around each screw.
What we don't use: timber posts directly in soil (rot at ground level within 10–15 years), joists at 600mm centres (too wide, boards flex), composite boards on timber joist centres designed for timber (300mm needed for composite). Each of these is a common shortcut we see on cheaper deck builds and is the reason those decks fail within a few years.
The sub-frame is invisible after the deck is finished, but it's where the work goes in. A well-built sub-frame lasts 40+ years; a poorly-built one fails within a few.
Do I need balustrade or railings?
Building Regulations Part K require balustrade on any deck more than 600mm above ground level at any point. The specification:
• Height – minimum 1.1m above the deck surface for residential decks. Higher for some commercial settings.
• Gap size – gaps between spindles must not allow a 100mm sphere to pass. This prevents small children getting their heads stuck.
• Sturdiness – balustrade must resist a horizontal loading of 0.36 kN/m at handrail height (about a leaning adult).
• Continuity – balustrade must continue around any open edge of the deck.
Steps to a deck need a handrail if there are more than 3 risers. The handrail extends 300mm past the top and bottom of the step run for grip.
Balustrade options:
Timber spindle – traditional, cost-effective. Spindles between top and bottom rails. Available in pressure-treated softwood or hardwood. Lifespan matches the deck.
Glass panel – clear or frosted glass between posts. Modern, doesn't obstruct the view from the deck. More expensive. Toughened safety glass mandatory.
Horizontal cable – stainless steel cables tensioned between metal posts. Modern industrial look. Cables run horizontally so don't obstruct the view. Excellent for elevated decks where the view is the feature.
Composite balustrade – matches the decking material in colour and finish. Available in spindle and panel formats. Maintenance-free.
Metal balustrade – powder-coated steel or aluminium, often used as a contemporary infill panel. Variety of patterns and finishes.
For elevated decks over 1.5m height or decks above living spaces (over a basement or above a road), additional structural calculations may be needed. We design and install all of these to Building Regulations compliance.
