How much does garden fencing cost?
Per linear metre, fully installed in Worcestershire in 2026:
• Lap panel 6ft on timber posts – entry-level boundary fence
• Lap panel 6ft on concrete posts and concrete gravel board – long-life standard
• Closeboard / featheredge on concrete posts and gravel board – long-life premium boundary fence
• Slatted contemporary fencing – premium contemporary finish
• Picket fence 3-4ft – decorative front-boundary fence
• Removal of old fence and tip fees – priced per metre, included in your itemised quote
What's included: timber or concrete posts dug in with post-mix concrete, panels or boards, gravel boards, capping rails where used, all pressure-treated timber, stainless steel or external-grade galvanised fixings, removal of waste materials. What's quoted separately and varies by project: gates, custom-designed fence runs, premium hardwood specifications, painting or staining.
Three things move the price within each band:
1. Post specification – timber posts (entry-level), concrete posts (best-value long-life upgrade), brick piers (premium tier).
2. Ground conditions – soft soil is fast to dig; rocky or compacted ground takes much longer and may need specialist plant.
3. Access and disposal – quiet garden access is cheapest; lifting panels through the house or over a roof is more involved.
See the full fencing services page.
How long does a fence last?
Lifespan depends almost entirely on the post specification:
Concrete posts with concrete gravel boards – 20 to 25 years for the timber panels, much longer for the concrete components. The most durable specification by a wide margin.
Timber posts directly in soil – 10 to 15 years before the post rots at ground level. The boundary between wet soil and oxygen is where decay happens fastest, and no amount of pressure treatment fully solves it. Once the post rots at ground level the fence becomes structurally unsound and needs replacement.
Timber posts on post anchors (galvanised steel ground spikes) – 15 to 20 years. Better than direct-in-soil because the timber is held above ground level by the steel anchor, but the anchor itself can corrode over decades.
Other factors:
• Gravel boards – concrete gravel boards keep the bottom of the timber panels off the wet ground. Concrete adds 5+ years to panel life.
• Capping rails – protect the top of closeboard fences from rain getting into the end grain.
• Treatment – pressure-treated timber lasts longer than untreated. An annual coat of timber preserver or shed paint extends it further.
• Exposure – south and west facing fences degrade faster (sun and prevailing weather).
Cathedral Landscapes recommends concrete posts and concrete gravel boards as standard for all boundary fencing. The modest per-metre uplift roughly doubles the lifespan.
Do I need planning permission for a fence?
Fences up to 2 metres high (1 metre if next to a public highway used by vehicles) do not require planning permission under permitted development rights in England. This covers the vast majority of residential garden fencing.
You need planning permission if:
• The fence is taller than 2m (or 1m next to a vehicle highway)
• The property is a listed building (any external works need Listed Building Consent)
• The property is in a conservation area or Article 4 Direction zone with specific fence controls
• A planning condition on the property restricts boundary treatments
• The fence forms part of a development requiring full planning approval (eg new house, major extension)
How fence height is measured: from the natural ground level on the lower side. So a 1.8m closeboard fence on a slope where one side is 300mm higher than the other still counts as 1.8m as long as the highest point above the lower ground level is no more than 2m.
What counts as "next to a highway used by vehicles": a public road or carriageway open to the general public. Footpaths and bridleways don't count. A driveway shared with neighbours typically doesn't count.
If you're unsure, the local planning authority offers free pre-application advice. We flag any concerns during the free site visit and tell you upfront if a planning application looks necessary.
Who owns the fence between me and my neighbour?
Fence ownership is determined by the property deeds, specifically the Title Plan registered with HM Land Registry. The Title Plan uses a T-mark convention to show which side is responsible for each boundary:
• A T-mark on your side means the boundary is your responsibility
• A T-mark on the neighbour's side means it's their responsibility
• A double T (or H) mark indicates a shared boundary – both parties contribute
The popular myth that "you own the left/right fence as you face the house from the street" is just that – a myth. There is no universal rule. Check the deeds.
How to find the T-marks on your boundaries:
1. HM Land Registry – download the Title Plan for your property from gov.uk/search-property-information-land-registry. A small fee applies, paid directly to the Land Registry.
2. Your conveyancing solicitor – they hold a copy of the deeds from when you bought the house.
3. Your mortgage lender – if you have a mortgage, the lender holds the deeds and can provide a copy.
If the deeds are silent or ambiguous on a particular boundary (which happens), the convention is that both parties are jointly responsible for that boundary unless they agree otherwise in writing.
Whether you own the fence or not, it's always good practice to talk to the neighbour before installing a new fence. We always advise this and offer to be present for the conversation if helpful.
Closeboard vs lap panel – what's the difference?
Two different fence construction methods with different strengths:
Lap panel – pre-built 6ft x 6ft (or 6ft x 5ft / 6ft x 4ft) panels of overlapping horizontal boards in a frame, made in a factory and delivered ready to install. Fast to install (a panel goes between posts in minutes). Cheap. Looks neat when new.
Downsides: the individual boards in lap panels are typically thin (around 9mm). In high winds the boards can blow out from the panel frame, leaving gaps. The frame itself is light and the panels can break in a single storm. You can't easily replace one board – you replace the whole panel.
Closeboard (featheredge) – built on-site from individual vertical featheredge boards (typically 100–125mm wide, 11mm thick at the thick edge tapering to about 6mm at the thin edge) nailed to two or three horizontal arris rails which span between the posts. A counter rail along the top and a capping rail keep weather off the end grain.
Strengths: the vertical boards overlap with no gaps between them. The arris rails are substantial (typically 75 x 50mm) and don't blow out. Individual featheredge boards can be replaced if damaged. The fence is structurally more robust than lap panels and looks more substantial.
Carries a modest per-metre uplift over lap panels on the same posts.
For permanent boundary fences we strongly recommend closeboard. For temporary fences, less-exposed locations or budget-driven projects, lap panels are acceptable. See the garden fencing page.
Should I use concrete or timber posts?
Concrete for boundary fences, every time. The reason is structural longevity.
Timber posts – even pressure-treated, even tanalised – rot at the boundary between wet soil and oxygen, which is exactly the soil line where the post emerges from the ground. Within 10 to 15 years that ground-level rot reduces the post cross-section to the point where the fence becomes unstable in storms. The fence still looks fine above ground; the rot is hidden where the post meets the soil. The first storm of the wrong season takes it down.
Concrete posts don't rot. The standard residential concrete post is a precast concrete H-section with two parallel grooves running the height of the post. Panels slide into the grooves between posts. The post lasts essentially indefinitely; the panels still need replacement after 20–25 years but can be swapped in and out of the existing posts at low cost.
Other concrete post benefits:
• Panel replacement is trivial – lift damaged panel out, slide new one in. No post digging needed.
• Concrete gravel boards drop into the bottom of the grooves, keeping timber panels off the ground.
• Storm resistance is significantly higher than timber post fences.
Concrete posts carry a modest per-metre uplift over timber. Over the life of the fence this is the best-value upgrade available – doubled lifespan, easier panel replacement, much lower long-term cost.
Cathedral Landscapes installs concrete posts as the default specification for boundary fences. We only recommend timber posts where appearance specifically calls for them (some conservation areas, traditional country properties).
How long does fence installation take?
A typical 20 to 30 metre residential boundary fence is installed in 1 to 2 days.
Day 1 – Set out the line, dig the post holes (one per panel join, typically every 1.83m), place posts vertically and pour post-mix concrete around the base. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to cure properly before loading.
Day 2 – With concrete cured, drop in gravel boards (where used), slide or fix the panels between posts, fit capping rails or post caps. Final tidy.
Variations on this timeline:
• Removal of existing fence – typically adds half a day for a standard 20m run. We dispose of old timber and concrete.
• Difficult ground – rocky or compacted ground takes longer to dig. We may need to use a powered post-hole digger or, in severe cases, a small mechanical auger.
• Slopes – either stepped (each panel level, gaps closed with gravel board cuts) or raked (panels follow the slope). Stepping takes longer to set out but looks more formal.
• Curves – require shorter panels and more posts. Adds time and cost.
• Long runs (50m+) – scale proportionally. A 50m run typically takes 2 to 3 days.
Concrete posts must cure for 24 hours before panels are loaded. Timber posts in postmix can technically be loaded the same day but we still wait overnight for a stable result. Plan for the fence to be in place by the end of day 2 with full strength after a further 24 hours.
What's the best fence for privacy?
1.8m closeboard on concrete posts and concrete gravel boards is the most private and durable choice for a residential garden. Three reasons:
1. No gaps in the panel. Vertical featheredge boards overlap with no visible joints, so there's no through-vision between boards (unlike many lap panels which have visible gaps where the horizontal boards overlap loosely).
2. Full 2m permitted height utilised. 1.8m fence + 150mm gravel board = 1.95m total above ground level (just under the 2m permitted development limit). This blocks line of sight from most adjacent properties.
3. Structurally durable. Concrete posts and gravel boards mean the privacy doesn't degrade as the fence ages – the same structure that gives you privacy today gives it in 20 years.
For taller-than-2m needs, planning permission is required. You can also achieve effective privacy with a 1.8m fence + climbing trellis or wire above; trellis up to 300mm in addition to the fence is generally accepted within permitted development.
Other privacy considerations:
• Overlooking from upper floors – even a 2m fence doesn't block second-floor windows of neighbours. Consider planting (large shrubs or small trees on your side) for additional vertical screening.
• Slopes – lower-ground neighbours can see over a fence that's only 2m above your ground level. Sometimes raking or stepping the fence helps.
• Privacy from above – a top capping rail set flush prevents anyone leaning over.
